Wimpy’s Grill is nobody’s secret. It has been well covered by several respected, high-profile sources—Man vs. Food, Our State magazine, and Carpe Durham have all given this diner their stamp of approval. But it’s also the kind of place you might miss if you aren’t looking for it, particularly in a food landscape that’s always got something fresh and new. So we decided to step away from the new kids on the block, and go back to basics at a place that started flipping patties long before Durham became a foodie haven.
In particular, we were curious how Wimpy’s holds up amongst the wave of gourmet, fancy pants burgers that go for at least twice the price. The burger makeover trend has moved this classic finger food from the backyard grill to the chef’s kitchen, topped with any and everything imaginable (think Tribeca Tavern, Bull City Burger, Red Robin).
Wimpy’s version of a themed burger would be the Garbage Burger—a loaded, double-decker cheeseburger sporting every available accoutrement. But it’s less about a theme and more about maxing out the capacity of the bun—how good can a burger be if a little something doesn’t escape as you eat? And at a price of about $6.99, we couldn’t pass up this steal.
It’s fairly common practice to tweak a dish to fit your tastes and preferences—if you are tempted to do that when ordering the Garbage Burger from Wimpy’s, DON’T! Everything on the burger serves a purpose and all the flavors combined to make one heck of a good sandwich.
Here’s the breakdown: bun, pickles, tomato, lettuce, chili, slaw, onion, ketchup, mustard, mayo, bacon, cheese, ¼ lb patty, cheese, ¼ lb patty, and bun. No, that’s not a typo, there are two ¼ lb patties and double cheese on this beast.
It felt kind of like a delayed passage into the grown-up world to eat a burger with any and everything, including a few condiments we wouldn’t normally go for—and now we know it’s just meant to be. While messy, this burger hits every spot on the tongue—with each bite you get some combination of sweet, salty, juicy, tangy, crunchy, cheesy, tasty, greasy and wonderful. It hits the spot without feeling fussy—all of the add-ons are essential, layering to create an All-American treat.
To serve as a control, we also got a single cheeseburger with lettuce and tomato—your standard-issue grill food with a side of fresh, crispy fries. The main test of any burger is in the meat, and even the simplest Wimpy’s burger makes the grade with fresh ground beef. The cherry cobbler looked less appetizing than it really was and offered up flaky crust and sweet cherries. The cobblers are made fresh daily and vary by day.
At the end of the day we decided it’s not exactly apples to apples comparing Wimpy’s to the upscale burger market. It’s kind of like an Ivy League vs. a state school—you’ll get a good meal either way but one feels like a better deal, served with a bit less pomp and circumstance. It also has a lot to do with expectation—sometimes you’re in the mood for tradition and sometimes you want something unexpected. That being said, we add our stamp of approval to Wimpy’s Grill.
A few things to know if you go—the A-frame building does not offer seating so most people grub in their cars; it is also a cash only establishment. If you're stopping by, do yourself a favor and get the Garbage Burger..all the way.
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